Chimi Lhakhang, the famed "Fertility Temple," is a revered site in Bhutan located in the Punakha District. Built in 1499 by the 14th Drukpa hierarch, Ngawang Choegyel, this temple is dedicated to the eccentric yet beloved saint, Drukpa Kunley, also known as "The Divine Madman."

Drukpa Kunley was a tantric master known for his unorthodox methods of teaching Buddhism, which often involved humor, outrageous behavior, and inconceivable actions that defied conventional morality. He believed in the importance of breaking societal norms to reveal the true nature of things. One of his favorite symbols was the phallus, which he used to ward off evil spirits and to challenge hypocrisy. As a result, his followers often depicted him holding a wooden phallus, which has now become a key symbol associated with the temple.

The story of Chimi Lhakhang’s origins is tied to Drukpa Kunley’s conquest over a demoness. According to legend, he subdued the demoness of the Dochula Pass by hitting her with his "flaming thunderbolt of wisdom" — his phallus. Afterward, he trapped the demoness in a rock and declared that the site where she was defeated would become a place of fertility and blessings for women seeking to conceive. The temple was later built in his honor, and it became known as a sacred site for fertility blessings.

One of the more amusing aspects of the temple's tradition is the phallus ritual for conception.

For couples who are trying to conceive, the journey begins at Chimi Lhakhang with a sense of reverence, but also a lighthearted atmosphere, given the temple's quirky reputation. As part of the fertility blessing, women are given a large wooden phallus, often intricately carved, to carry as they walk around the temple three times. An act of circumambulation, known as *korwa* in Buddhist practice, Women who power through this er..embarrassing ritual of carrying around a gigantic wooden phallus with the likelihood of amused spectators symbolizes spiritual cleansing, the removal of obstacles, and an invitation for divine blessings.

Visitors to Chimi Lhakhang can also observe many phallus artworks as a common sight in the surrounding village. Houses are often adorned with brightly painted images of phalluses on their walls, a nod to Drukpa Kunley’s teachings and a way to bring protection and good fortune.

There are many success stories and amusing anecdotes from couples who took upon the challenge. Over the years, people from Bhutan and around the world have traveled to this sacred site, many leaving behind humorous yet heartfelt stories about their experiences.

One well-known tale involves a Bhutanese couple who had been trying for years to conceive without success. Desperate for a child, they made the pilgrimage to Chimi Lhakhang. After receiving the fertility blessing, they returned home. To their delight, just months later, they were expecting their first child. They later returned to the temple to offer their thanks and share their story. The husband jokingly recounted that while his wife was deeply moved by the blessing, he had been more concerned with holding back his laughter during the unique ritual!

Another amusing anecdote comes from an international couple who visited Bhutan after hearing about the temple’s reputation. Initially skeptical, the husband humorously told friends that he wasn’t sure how effective a "wooden stick" could be in helping them conceive. However, not long after returning from their trip, they were thrilled to discover they were expecting. Upon sharing their news, the husband added with a laugh, “I guess Drukpa Kunley and his magic stick did the trick after all!”

There’s also a story of a couple from Europe who had spent a lot of resources on multiple fertility treatments with no success. After hearing about Chimi Lhakhang from friends, they decided to visit. During the ritual, the wife was touched by the history and spiritual significance, while the husband found the idea of the phallus blessing amusing. Soon after their visit, they conceived twins. They later sent a letter to the monks at the temple, expressing their gratitude with a humorous note: “We came hoping for one baby, and Drukpa Kunley blessed us with two! Perhaps the phallus worked double!”

Chimi Lhakhang’s fertility tradition continues to attract visitors who leave with both spiritual comfort and laughter. The combination of faith, humor, and unconventional rituals keeps these tales alive as couples return to offer thanks for the blessings of children they once thought impossible.

A reminder that enlightenment and joy can be found in the most unexpected and humorous ways.